Jackson's Landscape Design

Tips on how to install Kerbs

Kerbs

On no certain terms should you alter or amend an existing line of road kerbs forming part of a public highway without the consent and approval of the local authority highways department.

All kerbs and their purposes

A. Retaining the carriageway edge to prevent 'spreading' and loss of structural integrity
B. Acting as a barrier or demarcation between road traffic and pedestrians or verges
C. Providing physical 'check' to prevent vehicles leaving the carriageway
D. Forming a channel along which surface water can be drained

Precast Concrete

Precast concrete units are now the most popular choice for kerbing. Hydraulically-pressed kerbs are strong, durable, cheap and can be manufactured to strict tolerances.
There are some special shapes,internal and external radius, quadrants and some droppers, standard straight kerbs and all have a pimpled finish and come in a standard shade of concrete grey. More decorative (and therefore more expensive) kerbs are becoming popular on prestige schemes, with features such as exposed aggregates and textured finishes, commonly known as Countryside kerb stones.

Traditionally, most straight kerbs are 915mm in length, although some of the kerb-units developed to match block-paving are only 100mm or 200mm long. Radius kerbs, IE those designed to form curves of less than 10m radius, are shorter than the equivalent straight units and the most modern ranges.

All kerbs, other than those with a square profile, have what is known as a 'watermark' or a 'waterline'. This is a line on the face above which surfacing (and therefore surface water) is not normally expected to extend. In many cases, the surfacing level is kept 25mm or more below the watermark.
The watermark is not a physical mark but generally coincides with a change in angle of the kerb face.

Radius Kerbs and Channels

A 'bend' in a kerb line is more correctly known as a 'radius'.While it is possible to create a radius by using straight kerbs, there are both road kerbs and block-paving kerb units that are specially shaped to create true, accurate curves, either internal (concave) or external (convex).

In the landscaping trade, a radius or arc is often described as 'fast' or 'slow'. A fast arc has a shorter radius than a slow arc, so, for example, a 3m radius is said to be faster than a 4.5m radius, which is, in turn, faster than a 6m radius. There is no threshold beyond which all arcs are fast or slow - fast and slow are comparative, subjective terms. A 4.5m arc is slower than a 3m arc, but is faster than a 6m arc.

Quadrants and Angles

As well as the straight and radius kerbs, the manufacturers also supply units with complementary profiles specifically to form right-angles.
Straight standard kerbs can also be cut to mitres to create the more intricate angles, a practice which requires a good eye, steady hand and years of experience, Shaun has this technique off to a tee, fair play mate.

Quadrant Block, sometimes known as a 'cheese'.
The Quadrant Block can be cut with a Stihl saw and a lot of skill to create angles of less than 90°

Drop Kerbs

Dropper kerbs are primarily used to reduce the amount of check on a kerb face to allow easy access for foot and vehicular traffic at access points, such as private driveway crossings or pedestrian crossings. They are manufactured as either a right-handed or a left handed dropper, when viewed from the carriageway.
Drops kerbs are also manufactured to numerous radial sizes, the area around the drop kerbs will always accommodate the Tactile paving units laid at 90° to help the visually impaired.

Bedding material

The bedding concrete should be laid out, approx 100-150mm thick before compacting, along where the edging is required. The kerbs should be strung out using 360° excavator, D shackle and a set of gravity fed kerb lifters. Prepare the bed with a shovel so that it is approximately 20mm proud . Then lay the edging as shown on a level bed making sure to leave a 10mm gap between each unit before continuing with the next section of concrete bedding, rack unit will be butt together when plumb, using a boat level and level to the string line.

NOTE
It is imperative to remove concrete at the end base of each laid unit before continuing to install the next unit, believe me you really dont want to lay and level any unit to find you cant close the unit together just because of a small stone, preparation is key for All procedures.

Kerb Laying

All kerbs should be laid on a concrete bed of at least 100mm thickness, and haunched with concrete to thickness of at least 150mm. A full-sized pavior's mall is preferred for tapping the kerbs down to the correct level, some installers use lump hammers and 4x2 off cuts, whilst others the base of a pick axe.
It is usual to remove any concrete bedding from the front of the kerb, as this is said to prevent 'differential settlement' in subsequent paving. The joints are often not mortared, but are laid with butt joints with out chipping the tops of each unit. The seated edging/kerb should never be more than 3mm above or below the line, use your Stabila spirit level to check the tolerances of each unit.

It is usual to leave 100-125mm of 'check',on the 250mm high units, and 25-40mm on the smaller, 150mm high domestic units, the surfacing level never exceeds the watermark of the kerb, and is usually kept 25mm or even more below it. This is sometimes done to accommodate future re-surfacing of the carriageway, so that, for example, the top 25mm of an asphalt pavement can be planed off, and then overlaid with 50mm of new material, without breaching the kerb watermark.
NOTE
The engineer will mark the levels on pins with insulating tape, ALWAYS place your string line to the top of tape, this simple task will save thousands of pounds.

Haunching

Concrete haunching should be undertaken once the laying process is completed, and the edgings have been checked for alignment both along the face and over the top surface. Make any adjustments to the alignment before placing the haunching.
While the bedding concrete holds the edging firmly at the correct level, the haunching concrete holds the edgings in the lateral plane, and prevents them being 'pushed' out of alignment by the weight of the contained pavement and its traffic. The concrete mixed for bedding is ideal for haunching garden edgings, or you may add a little more water, to aid final smoothing-off of the haunching. Road kerbs and other heavy applications should use a concrete of at least C20 strength for the haunching.

NOTE
Think about the surface thickness that require installing to meet the kerb tops at a later date, If you know the block paving is 60mm thick then the haunching must be kept at least 80-90mm below, Cost a lot of money to reduce the haunching heights.
CLEAN YOURSELF, KERBS AND TOOLS.

Our prices

My prices shown are 'supply and fix' throughout the UK, Price includes 30 linear metres of kerb unit as stated, 100mm concrete bed, 150mm concrete haunching and labour. No allowance has been made for travel, subsidiaries, engineer, any excavation work or the controlled removal of spoil.

Straight Road Kerbs

150x300x915mm Half battered - £430
125x250x915mm Half-battered - £390
125x150x915mm Bull-nosed - £320

Radius kerbs and transitions approximately £1.25 per metre extra.

Should you require advice or a fully written quotation for the installation of all kerbs then please do not hesitate to contact me.

We look forward to working with you.
And remember CLEAN DOWN

(A huge thanks to Auberry MD for Newton Developments, Vic, Foreman, and his lads for allowing me to work with them and collect these images.)

Garden Design Cambridge

Shocked is the only word to descibe myself when I answered a phone call from a high profile, RHS award winning designer one Sunday after noon.

Kerrie John, Garden Designer for The Garden Design Co asked whether Jackson's Landscape Design would be interested in working on the installations of her designs, well, what could I say.

So it comes with pride that I anounce that Jackson's Landscape Design, will undertake the allocated designs from Kerrie John.

Kerrie John began The garden design Co ten years ago after returning to college to study Horticulture and Garden Design after a varied career.

Over the years, she has had the privilege of designing, building and planting hundreds of high-end gardens in many shapes, sizes and styles from small, contemporary urban courtyards to traditional family gardens on large estates for a wide range of clientele.

For Kerrie, creating a garden is all about the aspirations, lifestyle and budget of the client so she tailors the design accordingly, making each garden project unique and completely individual. “Gardens should be of course ascetically pleasing but also practical. Patios need to be large enough to accommodate a chair being pushed away from the table and still allowing a person to walk behind it without falling into the planting beds” With a constant eye for the smallest detail Kerrie ‘designs out’ any potential problems at an early stage making sure the garden work on all levels.

Her team of reputable and experienced contractors construct the gardens to the highest standards using the best in landscaping materials. Kerrie oversees all the projects from start to finish making sure that work is progressing to the client’s and her satisfaction, this allows the client to have regular communication with her and a point of contact at all times.
Kerrie sources all the plants required for the schemes and inspects every one before delivery to site ensuring they are of the finest quality available before planting them.

She also sources the finishing touches such as furniture, water features or statuary from talented craftspeople all over the world to compliment the design and complete the character of the garden.

Although based in Cambridgeshire, Kerrie has worked all over the South East including London and Oxford and is often asked to contribute written articles to various magazines and national newspapers. She won an RHS Silver Medal at Hampton Court for her small garden ‘Dave’s Place’ which was featured on BBC TV and in The Daily Mail and RHS The Garden magazine.

We look forward to working with you, creating and installing beautiful gardens for you.

Fake lawns

We are extremely privileged and proud to have been recently asked by Graeme Mann, MD for Fake-Lawns, Berkshire, to join his highly reputable team of professionals to install all high quality artificial grass within the Southwest, region and UK.

The benefits of an artificial lawn being

• No more watering
• High UV resistance

A natural grass finish

• Always green
• No more muddy patches or urine burns
• Useable all year round
• No more mowing and plus no carbon emissions from petrol driven lawn mowers, therefore reducing your carbon footprint.
• No fertilisers needed. Thus pollution from water run off carrying chemicals
into the drains is minimised.
• Ideal for pets and children

We would recommend a number of products for their natural looking appearance, these are the best fake turf on the market and is virtually indistinguishable from real grass when viewed from a distance.

When commissioned to install artificial grass, we ensure the highest grade materials are used. Each job is unique and several key factors affect what products are used. For instance we take into consideration the following:

• Ground stabilisation
• Drainage requirements
• Artificial grass softness
• Wear and tear - children, pets
• Safety play areas to act as a shock pad

The site preparation is critical to the successful installation and many companies will advise you that the soil only has to be removed to a depth of 3-5 cm and a weed membrane laid, followed by a thin compacted layer of coarse aggregate (if lucky!!), sand and then lay the artificial grass. Also be mindful that on cheaper artificial lawns which require to be “filled” (top dressed) with sand requires more ongoing maintenance and ideally re-sanded every year.

The installation process that we would recommend would encompass the following:

• Removal of existing lawn to an approx. depth of 50-75MM subject to ground conditions
• Installation of tanilized timber edging where required
• Install commercial grade geo-textile membrane
• Installation of a DTP Type 1 granular sub base
• Final levelling of ground by applying a layer of sharp sand
• Install a second commercial grade geo-textile membrane

Typical key features of our artificial lawns

• 30mm pile height, hardwearing surface
• Twisted monofilament with straight pile polyethylene grass
• Latex backing, pre-punched for drainage
• 10 year warranty on UV stability
• Verdi, olive, field green and beige colour
• With it’s tightly curled base and long straight fibres the 4 coloured turf gives a very natural and soft feel

Safety play areas to act as a shock pad “critical fall height regulations”
If required we would install a shock pad membrane based upon the clients requirements.

As a general rule of thumb the following considerations should be taken into account:

No critical fall height Shock pad depth 18mm
1.3m 25mm
1.6m 35mm
2.5m 45mm

The shock pads are supplied in 1 X 2M packs and cost varies depending upon the depth and area to be covered this also takes into consideration the additional soil to be removed.

Maintenance requirements

Whilst no artificial grass is 100% maintenance free and will require a small amount of maintenance. We recommend lawns to be brushed or blowed on a as required basis to clear off any debris such as fallen leaves.
Lawns that are classed as sand filled will require topping up with kiln dry sand on a regular basis for heavy traffic areas to avoid pile crushing and on light traffic areas annually.

Our ability to manage larger orders for some of the Southeast and Southwest developments also means that we can supply Fake Lawns from our suppliers to our site, saving money and keeping your project on budget and on time.

Should you have any questions regarding the installation, price or duribilty of our quality product please do not hestiate to contact us on 01252 416373 or Email Graeme or myself for a free no obligation quote which will be tailored to your unique requirements.

We look forward to being of service to you.

View our full profile in the FreeIndex Garden Design Directory directory.

Exterior decking

We are extremely privileged and proud to have been recently asked by Karl Harrison, MD for Exterior Decking to join his highly reputable team of professionals to install all high quality hardwood decking within the Southwest, region and UK.

Exterior Decking was created by Karl to supply, design and install the highest quality decking in the UK.

By careful research Exterior Decking have selected the highest quality premium hardwood decking and the best composite decking.

Exterpark Decking a is a patented natural wood product that has been trailed and tested for many years especially for the UK market. Exterpark hardwood decking is as unique as it beautiful, due it being the only profiled decking with a truly invisible fixing system.

Exterior Decking has found a niche position that can not only supply but accurately style design to assist Architects and Designers with all matters pertaining to decking installation.

Jackson's Landscape Design and Exterior Decking has the expertise to install decking structures UK wide for private and commercial customers by using the finest decking available, any size, any length and any thickness... Architects and designers can specify exact decking requirements... Ipe – Kurupay – Elondo – Cumaru – Rustic Teak – Rhodesian Teak – Garapa Kiln Dried S4S, E4E decking wood is smooth and perfectly finished FSC, PEFC

More than just decking suppliers and installers!

We pride ourselves on two things, our product knowledge and our product quality, so when you contact us for your project, we really want the end product to be as perfect as you do.
We always offer advice on the best types of decking to use for your chosen application, we have a proven track record of delivering high end products to large building firms and contractors with the ability to please even the most demanding designers and architects. We can also offer full product information if you're a designer and still at the presentation stage to your end user.
Talk to us first and you'll see why Exterior Decking and Jackson's Landscape Design has a reputation for delivering time and time again.

Need your decking professionally installed?

Exterior deck are not just retailers of the finest deck you can buy! We provide a decking design and installation service for the home garden, school, hotel and many other commercial projects.
All of our staff are experienced, insured and managed by Karl Harrison. We have been installing decks since 2003 and by using strict guide lines set by TRADA and current building regulation practices. Using these standards we can deliver a high specification project to your exact design.

Making sure we deliver!

It's our company objective to supply only the finest quality external decking possible for your chosen application, we have a direct route of communication to all our decking products ensuring we know the product we deliver will always be of the standard we would expect our customers to expect. Our products are unsurpassed in this arena and we are sure that once you have installed our product you will have a premium deck to be proud of.
We have many years experience in working hand in hand with teams of companies working on large building projects, so we know only too well how important a delivery date and time is to the smooth running of these builds.
We will provide only the very highest quality and deliver on time when we say we will. If you have a specification that is not listed then let us know as we can deliver when no one else can!

Our ability to manage larger orders for some of the worlds most impressive building developments also means that we can supply decking direct from our production line to your site, saving money and keeping your project on budget.

For all Exterpark hardwood decking prices click here.

We look forward to working with you.

Permeable driveway contractor Devon

We are a member of the Marshalls Register of Approved Landscape Contractors and Block Paving Driveway Installers, a national network of highly reputable professional block paving and garden patio paving specialists. .

We are strictly vetted by the leading block paving and patio paving manufacturer to ensure that the highest possible standards of installation is maintained thereby providing customer with the confidence and peace of mind as every block paving driveway or patio is finished to the highest specification.

We have undertaken numerous Permeable Surfaces training courses and are now certified to advice and install surfaces which abide to government legislation.

Permeable Paving, a Sustainable Urban Drainage (SUDS) System for driveways

The permeable block allows surface water to pass through into a specially calculated sub base material without compromising the structural performance of the driveway.

The use of SUDS can reduce the risks of flooding and pollution of the public sewer system especially in times of heavy rainfall.

IMPORTANT Installation Note

The permeable system should not be attempted by the DIY enthusiast or untrained .installer. It requires the careful calculation of a soil permeability test and appropriate use of specially graded sub-base aggregates

The permeable system must be laid on a sub-grade which has previously had an established and adequate existing driveway and an area which has a sub-grade soil strength greater than 5% and should be laid with a 20mm and 6mm washed, graded, angular aggregate to BSEN12620, to ensure compliance.

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Conditions required for permeable surfaces

The grade of permeable blocks featured in this blog is only intended for normal domestic vehicles and pedestrian traffic, though occasional delivery vehicles over 3.5tonnes gross weight can be tolerated.

The domestic permeable system is only intended for driveways or paths where infiltration is required only in the immediate permeable paved area and not from other surrounding paved or roofed areas.

In some parts of the country there are ground conditions where infiltration could adversely affect foundations to houses, therefore, if in doubt seek advice from a specialist or the local authority building control department.

Properties constructed pre 1920 may not have been built on traditional concrete foundation, therefore, if this is proved to be correct during excavation then the permeable system should not be installed.

Check for services, permeable paving must NOT be installed if gas or electric services run through intended permeable areas.

Guidelines for Installing Permeable Block Paving

Surface Gradient

The intended permeable area must fall away from the owner’s house and any other buildings in the immediate vicinity. If the driveway exceeds 20m in length and/or has a gradient greater than 1 in 100 then please contact me to discuss the installation of baffles.
The top surface of the driveway should finish at least 150mm below any adjoining wall DPC level.

Existing Foundations

If your house lies adjacent to or less than 600mm from the proposed permeable driveway area, establish depth of house foundation before undertaking any soil test/permeable installation.

The house foundation top surface must be 600mm (minimum) below the finished level of the top of the proposed permeable driveway.

Soil Strength and Permeability

All permeable systems must be laid on a subgrade which has previously had an established and adequate existing driveway and an area which has a subgrade soil strength greater than 5%.

The permeable system is only suitable for soil areas where infiltration applies and the test criteria have been met as per the standard permeability test.

For the standard permeability a test hole should be dug for every 20m2 of driveway. There should be a minimum of two holes.
Holes/pits should be spaced evenly in relation to the proposed permeable area.

Discharge onto Roadway

The domestic permeable area must not discharge onto surrounding public roadway and pathways and towards any buildings.

Rain Water Catchment Area

No adjoining surface areas (rainwater pipes, roof areas etc) must drain onto and into the proposed permeable driveway area, however, small areas such as door steps and garage areas are acceptable providing they do not exceed 5% of the driveway area. Guideline: Catchment area = driveway area Catchment area = drained surface area

Aggregates

All permeable units must be laid with 20mm and 6mm washed graded angular aggregate to BS EN12620 to ensure compliance.

Trees

When installing in close proximity to existing trees, tree roots smaller than 25mm diameter may be pruned back, preferably to a side branch, using a suitable pair of secateurs or hand saw.

Roots

Larger than 25mm should only be severed following consultation with an arboriculturist, as they may be essential to the tree’s health and stability.

Protection of the pavement will also be required, hence the requirement of a permeable root barrier system such as the Geoweb bio barrier system or similar which is non surface protruding, and therefore, does not present a trip hazard once installed.

Health and Safety

It is possible that more excavation for a permeable driveway may be required than that of a driveway constructed of traditional block paving, therefore, care must be taken when excavating ground to a
deeper level. Particular care must be taken to protect the sites from children and partially sighted persons and for collapse of adjoining features such as boundary walls/fences.

Check for services, Permeable paving must not be installed if gas or electric services run through intended areas.

Care must be taken when constructing over Sewer, rainwater pipes and water pipes to ensure that the services remain supported for their full length by undisturbed material and are surrounded on
the remaining sides by a minimum of 150mm of 6mm material to protect the service.

Thank you for your time and if you require any more information on receiving a fully written quotation please do not hesitate to contact by email or phone.

Permeable paving options

Permeable Grassguard 130…- how to take care of your investment.

Grassguard is a permeable ground stabilisation paving manufactured from concrete.

It is designed to combat soil erosion caused by weather conditions and traffic. The grid design generates a stable load-bearing surface suitable for traffic and an environment that promotes the growth of grass and vegetation.

It is available in three sizes for different loading requirements.

Grassguard 130 measures 500x300x100mm. It is suitable for domestic locations, pedestrian areas, landscaping, country footpaths and light car traffic and parking.

Grassguard 160 measures 600x400x120mm. It is suitable for farming and horticulture, general car parking, occasional commercial overrun, and embankment stabilisation.

Grassguard 180 measures 600x400x120mm. It is suitable for commercial vehicle parking, emergency access routes, fire paths and high-velocity wet embankments.

Scope

These guidelines are for construction of paved areas using Grassguard concrete grass paving system.

Products Included:
Grassguard 130 (light duty) Domestic usage.

Health and Safety Information:
Safe working practices should be employed at all times during the construction process.
All relevant health and safety information, including COSHH data sheets can be obtained by contacting me at JacksonsLandscapeDesign.com

Pavement Design

The design of the pavement structure should take in to account prevalent site conditions and the type and frequency of imposed loads.
Planting roots provide much of the systems long term load carrying ability and it should be noted that the full strength of the installation will only be developed when grass cover is fully established.

Sub-base

Sub base formations should consist primarily of free draining granular material such as Type 1. In addition the sub base should also contain some humus type material to support root development and maintain grass growth during long dry periods.
Sub base depths should be dictated by prevalent ground conditions and anticipated traffic loadings. A minimum depth of 150mm should be provided for all situations. A sub grade improvement layer may be considered to improve bearing capacity of weak ground.
Adequate drainage must be ensured through the sub base/sub grade improvement
layers to prevent hydraulic head developing within the bedding/regulating layer.
When overlying impervious formations, drainage provision must be introduced.

Edge Restraints

Fixed edge restraints are recommended to prevent displacement of the units in trafficked applications. Where Grassguard units are installed without edge restraint, precautions should be taken to prevent overrunning of the edge until the grassed paved area is fully established.
Edge restraints should be sufficiently robust to resist imposed loading requirements placed upon the paving and prevents loss of bedding/regulating material. Kerb or edging units should be fully bedded on to a concrete foundation and haunched at the rear using RC35 concrete.

Bedding/Regulating Layer

The sub base should be overlaid by a bedding/regulating layer of sharp sand or pea shingle, 25mm thick to ensure the units are adequately bedded and evenly supported. Cementitious material should not be present in the bedding/regulating layer.

Laying

Units should be laid directly on to the bedding/regulating layer using lifting equipment where necessary. The units should not rock or be unevenly supported.

Bond Pattern

It is recommended that Grassguard units are laid in a bonded pattern to increase resistance to early trafficking before grass growth is fully established. The bond should be perpendicular to the main flow of vehicles.

Seeding and Aftercare

After installation loosely fill all pockets with a clean friable, fine soil or loam with peat mixture to approximately 30mm below the top surface of the units. The grass seed will be sown while the mixture is still loose then covered with a thin layer of soil and levelled with a stiff broom. The top soil should lie approximately 12mm below the top surface of the units to protect emerging grass shoots from damage by wheeled vehicles. Seeding rate 17g/m2.

Cutting

Cutting may be carried out using a diamond tipped power saw and full PPE. Voids at boundaries should be filled with a suitable growing medium.

Early Trafficking

Grassguard units may be used immediately after laying but it should be noted that the full strength of the installation will only develop when grass cover is fully established. Trafficking should not take place until the pockets of the units have been fully filled with planting soil.

Inclement Weather

Laying operations should be discontinued (and open work face covered) if weather conditions are such that the performance of the pavement may be jeopardised.
All unfinished areas and stockpiles of material should be covered in the advent of inclement weather to prevent saturation. At the end of the day just remember which country you live, English bloody weather.

Protection

All necessary Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) should be worn on site, as the site rules dictate. Both the operator of the cutting machine and any person within its immediate vicinity must always wear goggles, ear protection, dust masks and protective footwear, whenever cutting operations are undertaken.

Maintenance

Grassguard units themselves require no specific maintenance during service. Grassguard paved areas are easily maintained by the use of hover or rotary /gang mowers provided care is taken to set the blades high enough to avoid damage on the concrete surface.

It is recommended that fertilisers are used at the beginning and end of each growing season. Any localised settlement may be rectified by lifting and re bedding individual units as required.

Permeable Certificated

We have undertaken numerous Permeable Surfaces training courses and are certified to advice and install surfaces which abide to government legislation.

I hope I haven't gone on too much, there are many theories on how to install this product, what You have just read is the only way to install Grassguard and appreciate its long term durability.

Thanks for your time and if you require any more information on receiving a fully written quotation please do not hesitate to contact by email or phone.

Tips on soil managment

Managing your soil.

It's been a few months now since the removal lorry vanished out of sight at the end of your road, family and friends has popped in to help out with the labourious decorating chores, the furniture has settled down in its allocated position, now its time for the outside room to be addressed.
Although at first your new garden soil would appear to be robust it is in fact a fragile environment that must be at the very least, protected and wherever possible improved by certain rules of good soil cultivation.

After the builder has gone

The very worst situation is directly after the builders have left of a newly built house where the soil has been moved, mixed and worst of all, compacted.

The best types of soil will normally be dark fertile top-oil (Loam). Before the builders started their work this soil would have been the top layer and should have been put back, Yeah right.

Compaction is a problem that must always be addressed to ensure that there is no "pan" or layer of compacted soil. This will prevent water from draining away and plant roots from penetrating it in dry spells in their search for water.

"Pans" can show their effects for many years after planting and leads to the death of plants and drying out your new lawns, so what's the answer?

Double digging

Double digging will take care of most of these problems and by cultivating the soil to a depth of 50cm (metric for me ). Adding well rotted manure, spent mushroom compost or other pre-planting organic material, will help improve the soil by holding in moisture and providing some plant food.

Here's how

A. Dig a trench one spade or fork deep and 70-80cm wide. Store the soil to fill the final trench.
B. Fork over the base of the trench adding compost or manure.
C. Dig and throw forwards the next 70cm mixing in the organic material, thus creating the next trench.
D. Repeat until the entire plot has been dug and fill in the last trench with soil from the first.

Golden rules

Double digging is achieved by using a spade or fork but for larger areas and a little care the hire of a mini digger can prove an effortless way of soil preparation.

A. NEVER attempt to prepare the soil when very wet or frozen.
B. Always attempt to keep the fertile top-soil on the top and the sub-soil below.
C. Add good quantities of organic material.
D. Dig deep if pans are expected.
E. On very wet soil consider a form of additional drainage.
F.When possible, prepare in autumn to leave winter weather to naturally break down the soil surface.
G. Always try to work off a board when digging to prevent compaction.

Weeds and ground cover

Weeds, in particular perennial types, should be removed as seen by digging out or by using a weed killer. Dandelions, Couch Grass or Twitch, Ground Elder and Docks are among the worst.

If the area is covered by turf or lawns it may be worth while considering removing as thin turfs and storing in a stack in a quiet corner of your garden. By stacking them roots upwards in a tidy heap they will soon rot down into top-soil which can be used later.

Once the soil preparation has been taken care of you will be able to determine your soil acidity by purchasing a kit from your garden centre and follow the instructions. The pH content can be decided by comparing the sample with the colour chart supplied.

Always remember I'm here to help you. Should you require advice or a fully written quotation for the soil preparation of your lawns, gardens, planters or raised beds then please do not hesitate to contact me by Email or phone.

Invest in a landscaped garden for your second home

I am sure that there are several reasons why people buy a second home - either to get away from the drum of the day job for some peace and quiet at weekends, for long-term investment purposes or perhaps for a holiday home for oneself or to rent out for a little income. Whatever the driving incentive, it is clear that your investment will need to be maintained and improved; perhaps even developed so that you can reap the greatest benefits.

Working and living remotely from any investment can bring substantial challenges - not least being able to trust ay business or individual you wish to engage.

By commissioning me and my Jackson's Landscape Design company, I can give you personal assurances that your investment and money is in good hands - I have more than a reputation at stake and I take the responsibilities very seriously.

Project management for landscaping

Once a contractor has been appointed, further site meetings and visits are undertaken by us during the construction phase to monitor the progress acting for our client to ensure work is carried out according to the specification and to the highest professional standards.

The contract is solely between the client and the contractor.

For a fee we will manage the project for the client and ensure the following:-

Landscaping, and what to expect from us whether its winter, spring, summer or autumn

Landscaping is such a diverse and complex subject that I could not begin to explain all of it to you in this brief introduction.

What I do know is that I have a strong affinity for what I am doing that I do not consider landscaping and designing a job; I genuinely feel that I have found my vocation and this is reflected within the entire service structure within Jackson’s landscape design.