Managing your soil.
It's been a few months now since the removal lorry vanished out of sight at the end of your road, family and friends has popped in to help out with the labourious decorating chores, the furniture has settled down in its allocated position, now its time for the outside room to be addressed.
Although at first your new garden soil would appear to be robust it is in fact a fragile environment that must be at the very least, protected and wherever possible improved by certain rules of good soil cultivation.
After the builder has gone
The very worst situation is directly after the builders have left of a newly built house where the soil has been moved, mixed and worst of all, compacted.
The best types of soil will normally be dark fertile top-oil (Loam). Before the builders started their work this soil would have been the top layer and should have been put back, Yeah right.
Compaction is a problem that must always be addressed to ensure that there is no "pan" or layer of compacted soil. This will prevent water from draining away and plant roots from penetrating it in dry spells in their search for water.
"Pans" can show their effects for many years after planting and leads to the death of plants and drying out your new lawns, so what's the answer?
Double digging
Double digging will take care of most of these problems and by cultivating the soil to a depth of 50cm (metric for me ). Adding well rotted manure, spent mushroom compost or other pre-planting organic material, will help improve the soil by holding in moisture and providing some plant food.
Here's how
A. Dig a trench one spade or fork deep and 70-80cm wide. Store the soil to fill the final trench.
B. Fork over the base of the trench adding compost or manure.
C. Dig and throw forwards the next 70cm mixing in the organic material, thus creating the next trench.
D. Repeat until the entire plot has been dug and fill in the last trench with soil from the first.
Golden rules
Double digging is achieved by using a spade or fork but for larger areas and a little care the hire of a mini digger can prove an effortless way of soil preparation.
A. NEVER attempt to prepare the soil when very wet or frozen.
B. Always attempt to keep the fertile top-soil on the top and the sub-soil below.
C. Add good quantities of organic material.
D. Dig deep if pans are expected.
E. On very wet soil consider a form of additional drainage.
F.When possible, prepare in autumn to leave winter weather to naturally break down the soil surface.
G. Always try to work off a board when digging to prevent compaction.
Weeds and ground cover
Weeds, in particular perennial types, should be removed as seen by digging out or by using a weed killer. Dandelions, Couch Grass or Twitch, Ground Elder and Docks are among the worst.
If the area is covered by turf or lawns it may be worth while considering removing as thin turfs and storing in a stack in a quiet corner of your garden. By stacking them roots upwards in a tidy heap they will soon rot down into top-soil which can be used later.
Once the soil preparation has been taken care of you will be able to determine your soil acidity by purchasing a kit from your garden centre and follow the instructions. The pH content can be decided by comparing the sample with the colour chart supplied.
Always remember I'm here to help you. Should you require advice or a fully written quotation for the soil preparation of your lawns, gardens, planters or raised beds then please do not hesitate to contact me by Email or phone.
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